The world of fashion is immersed in a new challenge. The Covid-19 crisis has made the industry rethink its foundations. Now more than ever is the time to reinvent ourselves and agree on new strategies that relaunch the world of fashion in a new uncertain landscape. Well, that time has come through the ' Rewiring Fashion ' initiative. A group from this sector has taken the reins of change and has put forward an, to say the least, interesting approach that will try to prevail in the face of the coming crisis and will reformulate the principles on which fashion is based.
' Rewiring Fashion ' is defined as « a proposal for the global fashion industry, initiated by independent designers, CEOs and retail executives, to agree how it should and could work » under the premise of « believing in beauty, imagination and the craftsmanship that remain at the core of the business .” The objective? Rediscover the magic of fashion ( claiming its storytelling ) and settle the problems that have prevailed in the sector in recent years. That is to say, the aim of this group of fashion professionals is to confront a system that is less and less directed towards "genuine creativity" and "does not interest anyone" (not even the planet).
Here you have to stop and think. We can all agree that the direction fashion had taken was unsustainable . It is true that with digitization it could not be otherwise. The instantaneity that is required in all areas has revolutionized this industry to the point of leading to a frenetic ritual of continuous collections, daily news, a crowded market, excess supply and consumerism based on promotions. How could this be maintained?
Much of the blame lies with our beloved ' fast-fashion ' chains. But of course, the question is a paradox. On the one hand, these retailers provide an admirable service and adapt to the wishes of the consumer, drawing on what designers bring to the table and making it a reality on the streets. On the other hand, large firms (far removed from the average client) have succumbed to the synergies of the economy, wanting to release more collections than creativity and time allow, sacrificing what makes them unique. In addition, many see an opportunity in 'clones' (copies by the networks), as it is a disguised (and treacherous) method of promotion. All this, facilitated by the retransmission of the parades byinfluencers …which, in reality, is also a method of bringing fashion closer. In short, as we have said, an incongruous mess.
To unravel this entire panorama in which fashion is immersed, 'Rewiring Fashion' proposes several topics to study to put into practice . These are three ideas that, in themselves, are problems... to which different supposed solutions have been given. The goal is to reach a consensus among all the participants in the fashion industry to apply a new method. And, although it is only something in the air, what is proposed is quite interesting and feasible.
1.The fashion calendar is not in sync with the end customer.
It is explained that the current timing is unsustainable for industry professionals (because of its speed) and harmful for sales. The proposal is to reflect on when the parades should be held (with the aim of a shorter circuit) as they are far from the delivery of the final product.
Problems: A. Other brands can quickly copy the collections, bringing them to market cheaper. B. The departure dates are not in sync with the actual seasons. C. The periods at 'full price' are very short (and not very profitable).
Solutions: A. Combine the men's and women's fashion weeks on two dates (January-February and June). This will allow the prices to be maintained during those periods and the gender 'item' will be eliminated. B. Align runway shows, collection giveaways, and actual seasons to take place just before the time is appropriate. C. Synchronize the buying periods of the following seasons with the presentations of the current season.
2. The fashion show format is outdated.
Firms should be free to redefine and design the presentation of their collections in order to attract customers more efficiently.
Problems: A. The parade format hasn't changed in 50 years. B. They are now open to the entire globe through the broadcast of influencers and celebs . C. Fashion shows are not adapted to the new digital world, so there are limits to the return on consumer desires generated by investment in these shows .
Solutions: A. The parade as an event designed to attract and secure the consumer, creating expectation and desire for the collections just before going on sale. B. There should be no rules defining the format of the shows or expectations that each label should show a collection every season. C. Freedom for designers to reformulate presentations in order to attract clients and media.
3. Addiction to discounts.
This fact makes consumers expect perennial price drops, eroding the profitability and stability of the brand (for everyone in the value chain). Retailers should break with the practice of continuous discounts, focusing more on end-of-season sales and eliminating mid-season sales.
Problems: A. There are a lot of unsold garments and there is no other option but to make sales to clarify the inventory. B. Each season, vendors tend to discount too early to drive traffic and sales. This makes the consumer get used to and move away from the real prices.
Solutions: A. Retailers should avoid extreme discounting to maintain the importance of brand stability and profitability. B. Future discounts are to be delayed to January and July each year, starting from fall/winter 20. C. Stop discounts such as 'Black Friday' or 'Cyber Monday' during seasons.
The #rewiringfashion statement tries to preserve the idiosyncrasies of the industry while building a solid and sustainable business that can overcome the crisis. A most lawful initiative that represents a before and after in fashion.
What will the new fashion scene be like ? Here is the seed.
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